Hier landen unsere Beiträge wenn wir unterwegs sind. 

 

 

Nach den Tagen am Meer in Sinai haben wir in Jordanien 10 Tage verbracht. Konnte vom Sandfahren in Wadi Rum kaum genug bekommen. In Petra konnten wir mit Beduinen zu Abend essen, aber mit den Fingern kleine Baellchen machen, das war echt schwer. Die Kinder mussten alle Regeln ueber Bord werfen und mit dem wirklich   guten Essen herumgatschen. Die Einreise in Syrien hat eine Stange Geld gekostet, aber nach Damaskus und der Kreuzritterburg Krak de Chevallier hatten wir genug - Regen, Hagel, Regen... Sind nach einer Nacht in Syrien weiter in die Tuerkei - hier gibt es viel zu sehen aber das Wetter macht uns etwas zu schaffen und die relative Naehe zur Heimat wirkt wie ein Magnet. Mal sehen wie sich das entwickelt.

(kurz bevor der Beitrag fertig war, hat sich das Programm verabschiedet - alles von vorn )

 

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Sundowner zum 4. Advent - die Dosen haben schon 2* den Aequator ueberquert

Wie rechtnet man jetzt das Volumen der Pyramiden?(Meroe/Sudan)

Aegyptischer Sklave mit 2 Tassen Gluehwein - die brauchen wir inzwischen weil die Naechte schon sehr kalt sind

  

 

 

After spending the night at one of South Luanga's gates, we entered the park early to spot some animals. Poor Fabian had a bad stomach bug, so we decided to go to the Mushroom Lodge. It is the only lodge in South Luanga that day visitors are aloud to visit. When they saw Fabian was ill, they made us all tea and found a cool room where he could sleep. I stayed with him while Sarah and Roland went gamespotting. Mushroom Lodge was really beautiful and the staff were absolutely amazing!!!!! If you do go South Luanga National Park this is an address worth looking up!! Fabian felt better in the afternoon so Roland and Sarah fetched us to look at the pack of 8 lions  they spotted earlier. We saw many hippos and crocodiles etc. In SLNP you don't drive 5 minutes without spotting something.

In Sudan we were advised never to look at our watches. I understand why. This time much friendlier at the border as we had vallid Visas Roland was invited for lunch as all the officials were hungry. Yip, we waited in the car. After getting the passported stamped Roland was invited for coffee by the official at customs. We waited in the hot car. After two hours we left. I drove the car util I couldn't take anymore comment from Roland and then we camped in a field. In the morning we woke early to leave.Next to us there were sheperds with their cattle. Well disciplined cattle! It is strange to drive here and not see any livestock all over the road, but now we have police stopping us every 50 km Today is Saturday...almost everything is closed. We are camping at the Nile yacht Club though. Now Its time for bed,

Unser Bungalow am Meer.

Blick aufs Meer I

Blick aufs Meer II

Unter Wasser - Ausflug zu den Korallen

Reanda geht auf Tauchstation - die Plastikhülle für die Kamera hält bis 4m dicht - tiefer will ich nicht testen.

Wir feiern Reandas Geburtstag in Arusha - eine heiße Party

Auf dem Weg zum Lake Natron - Dieser Massai hat eine Handverletzung die wir versorgen - darauf bringen sie uns ein Baby mit  Verbrennungen am gesamten Rücken. Wir versuchen zu helfen so gut es geht, aber viel können wir nicht tun,dazu fehlt es an Wissen und Mittel. Trotzdem sind alle sehr dankbar und im nächsten Ort dürfen wir mitten am Dorfplatz übernachten.

Blick auf (meinen) Schicksalsberg- der Vulkan Ol Doynio Lengai

Hier nochmal der dominante Ol Doynio Lengai - den Berg der Götter - 2000 m Höhendifferenz bis zum Gipfel (2900m). Nachdem Kili zu teuer und überlaufen ist und der Mount Meru mit 4800m immer noch zu teuer war - mußte ich einfach auf diesen Berg. Der Weg führt direkt über die Nordwestflanke nach oben - in direkter Linie. Ein Aschekegel mit etwa 40 ° Neigung, oben dann gegen 55 °.  Nachdem ein Führer im nächsten Ort (2h mit dem Auto) 120 $ kostet, beschließe ich den Berg alleine zu besteigen. Als ich mit dem Auto dann am Fuße des Berges stehe, die wilden kalten Lavaströme und die Steilheit erkenne, rutscht mir das Herz in die Hose. Es gibt nur einen Weg auf den Berg, und diesen zu finden ist so gut wie unmöglich, die Fläche ist riesig - der Einstieg kann igendwo sein. Auf der harten Asche sind auch keine Autospuren zu sehen.Ich beschließe daher, mich einer Gruppe anzuschließen, falls ich im Ort eine finde die in der Nacht mit dem Aufstieg beginnt.Und tatsächlich finde ich im Camp dort eine Gruppe von 8 jungen Kanadiern und Amerikanern die den Berg mit Führer besteigen wollen. Ich kann noch 2 Stunden ruhen, dann geht es los. Kurz zusammengefasst - nach 7 Stunden in direkter Falllinie waren wir alle oben. Fast die Hälfte der Strecke auf allen Vieren wegen der Steilheit, teilweise auf weicher Asche, schwer steigend. Diese Besteigung hat mir wirklich das Letzte abverlangt - ob ich schon das Alter spüre? Oben dann zum Sonnenaufgang Nebel, Schwefelgestank und Kälte - jeder wollte nur noch runter. Freude will keine aufkommen, ich bin nur fertig.

Oben!

Am See - Reanda auf Motivsuche

Flamingos - Lake Natron

Auf dem Weg nach Ruanda.

Nach etwa 600 km Geländefahrt bemerke ich hohen Treibstoffverbrauch - die Dieselleitung hat was abbekommen. Ich versuche den Schaden zu beheben, doch die Stelle liegt genau über der Achse und ich komme nicht hin. (Wir fahren nach Kigali wo ich die Leitung ausbauen und schweissen lasse ). Hier sieht man auch unsere neue Hülle für das Reserverad, die wir in Arusha anfertigen liesen. 

Ruanda - Land der 1000 Berge - Grün in allen Facetten. (sieht aus wie die Südsteiermark)

Von Ruhengeri aus besuchen Reanda und ich die Berggorillas (ist leider erst ab 16 Jahre - aber für uns alle 4 hätten wir uns das eh nicht leisten können)

Regenwald: Regen und viiiel Wald. Eine Stunde dürfen wir die Gorillas hautnah erleben

Süduganda - noch mehr Hügel,Regen und Grün. Wir haben genug vom Regen und steigen in Kabale(Uganda) im teuersten Hotel ab das ich finden kann. Es ist kalt und nass und alles was wir brauchen ist? - Genau, eine Sauna. Wir sind zwar fast am Äquator aber womit ich nicht gerechnet habe - viele Hotels haben eine Sauna. Nach einigem Suchen fanden wir auch ein Hotel bei dem die Sauna funktioniert - ein wirklich gutes Abendessen dazu, riesiges Bett, tolles Frühstück und wir waren wieder bereit im Regen zu übernachten.

20.10.2009
Kilimanjaro/Tanzania
Text: Roland
Gefahren: 16100 km

28.9.2009

Lusaka/Sambia
Text:Reanda
Gefahren: 12300 km

Botswana

I am sitting in the car trying to recapture the last few days. It isn't easy writing while music is playing, children are calling, Roland is telling me to take pictures and make lunch ....I hope what I am writing is making a bit of sense. Gil, in Botswana, drew us a map and gave us super tips on travelling Botswana. At first we thought it would be too expensive for us to really enjoy Botswana. We had to cross the Khwai river over a under water pole swing bridge. We walked across. On both sides it was deeper than 2m. I couldn't imagine us doing it, but Roland was persistent and I had to show him the way through. It was so awful for me...Pure stress!!!! We made it; but I was upset.

We were all tense and tired and the atmosphere in the car wasn't pleasant. For two days I went around feeling miserable and sorry for myself, angry and annoyed with myself. Wishing I wasn't here, but knowing there is no other place in the world I would rather like to be. . I just wanted to be alone and so did everyone else, but we were all caught up in a car with elephants and lion around us. I realised I was on such a beautiful place and thought I might only be here once in my life and wanted to enjoy it with my family. I should be happy and thankful! By the next evening I was so sad and knew I am the luckiest person and felt so guilty for being so sad and taking it out on all around me. I didn't know how to get out of my misery. My heart was so sore. We tried to make some space for us by me sleeping in the car and the kids in the tent and Roland on the roofbox. I was so sorry that night and decided to say so. After saying sorry all these horrible thoughts and feelings went away. Without discussing anything my apologies were accepted and I felt happy and at peace. I slept well and the next day we were merry and happy again. The time we spent there we saw wild dogs with their puppies, playing in the water. A lion feeding on a giraffe and we crossed another part of the river stress free!
We enjoyed the Elephants and hippos in the evening. Just before midnight a lion roared so close and so loud that the car windows were vibrating. I was frightened. For 15 minutes the hippos stopped playing in the water, the elephants stopped pushing over the trees and even the mosquito that was bothering me all night was quite. My heart was thumping in my throat. You can just imagine, now everybody suddenly wanted to urgently go to the toilet. The birds started singing first and then the animals carried on with there night activities as if nothing happened. Every one knew again who the was the king of the jungle...on the way back we decided to cross the river where the trucks cross. People on the way told us that the wooden bridge broke and two cars got drowned. I was send ahead again to check how deep the river was and by now we were more experienced so it was as easy as pudding. Just before leaving the bush a honey badger ran across the road just in front of us. It was so sudden and then he was gone. I couldn't believe my eyes. I've never seen one before.

Thank you so much Gil and Alice - treating us like family and looking after us so well in Botswana!

We read " Cry of the Kalahari". Roland was so moved by Ownens' research in Deception valley that he just had to go and see where they lived in Central Kalahari National Park. He so wished he could talk with them or someone who new them, but there was no sign left of them,. At least we saw one of their brown hyenas. We mostly sat on our car's roof and looked over the wide landscape. We felt so free in this wide landscape. We sat under a tree and watched Oryx drinking while doing schoolwork with the kids. Another highlight was the bat eared foxes we saw.

We spent a night in the Sua pans and played a family game like we promised Fabian. We never sleep in the car any more. Roland built us another bed on top of the car and we bought a good mosquito net! On the way to Zambia's border in one of those narrow ways we saw a very old cool safari truck. Very kind Germans stopped and fetched ice cold drinks from their fridge. We chatted, got information from these very well experienced travellers. Norbert used to write travel guides in Africa. Sabine was so fascinated about his journeys and wanted to meet him. She found him and now they have been together for so many years. They leave their car in Botswana and travel with it in Southern Africa . We left and went to an Austrian - south african couple who had a Lodge and camp site (A touch of Africa) who Nobert and Sabine told us about.

Zambia

I love it here in Zambia!! Although we met many people travelling in Namibia and Botswana we were really looking forward to meeting people, travelling through Africa the way we do. Crossing the border from Botswana to Zambia. was fun and exciting. Running around getting US dollars, insurance, visas etc. It was fun chatting and teasing around with the officials and locals around there. We got through easily but it took about 2 hours. It was really hot. On the ferry we saw many women carrying very very heavy things across the border. Seeing I had nothing to do I decided to help them carry. They told me they carry far, but that is how they make there living. Shopping in Zambia is really expensive. We drove through to Livingstone and camped close to the Vic Falls on green grass! We are so tired of camping in dust! There was a pool to cool down at the bar. I quickly found a (Zambian) friend to chat with. At night the Elephants came to check out the camp. In the morning we left for the Vic Falls . My father took me to Zimbabwe 20 years ago when I finished school. This time we looked at it from the Zambian side. It is dry season now and doesn't have as much water as it had in December 1988. We also walked down to the river - it was lovely. Like you imagine an African jungle with baboons swinging on monkey ropes, colourful birds and butterflies and little river crossings with huge palms and ferns. When we got to a little waterfall I just had to go and sit under it. I encourage the rest of the family to join me - above us the iron bridge over the Zambesi.
Livingstone reminded me a lot of the farm in Mpumalanga where I grew up. Everywhere Jakaranda and boganvilla and other subtropical plants. There are a lot of mango and paw-paw trees. Like the apples are everywhere in Styria falling into the streets the mangos are hanging over the fences.

Later on we went to look at the curious sold there.

We saw tourists that looked very upset. A policeman arrived. We learnt that one of the tourists had gone to close to the edge. Their guide Tempa grabbed his arm and managed to get him on safe ground. Unfortunately he slipped down himself and couldn't be saved. Just about every tourist stood there to have a picture taken. It was really upsetting. I wasn't in the mood for bungy jumping any more.

We went on to the bridge and met Angela and Andrew, we got to know the night before, there. Angy wanted to jump. She was there a year ago and regretted not jumping. By the time I decided to jump too and Roland went to get money it was too late.

The night we camped on the same place and Angela and Andrew joined us. It was a refreshing chatting with this stunning, absolutely filled with vitality and well travelled couple on their way to getting married in Cape Town. Their energy was contagious! Havea look at www.togetherinafrica.co.uk. They are rising funds for local SOS Children's village!

The next morning it rained! We went to stay at jollyboys youth hostel. It was so colourful and pretty. We met travellers from the whole world there doing what we are doing. It was such an exciting holiday atmosphere! We spoke with a young lady, Nitzan. Nitzan has been travelling from Ethiopia taking busses and lifts. She is on her way to Cape town. She told as "Africa is a friendly place and not dangerous at all!" So far we have experienced the same.

Oh yes I almost forgot to tell you...I went for bridge swinging over the Vic falls yesterday and loved it!!!

Today Sarah and I quickly went for fabric shopping before we left Livingstone.

I'm sitting in the car on the way to Lusaka now. We are passing through colourful little villages. Sometimes seeing victorian styled buildings and other bright coloured shacky shops. All woman have pretty african print fabrics wrapped around them. They are carrying big parcels on there heads and babies also wrapped in these fabrics on there backs. Every now and then we have to break for a cow or goat or donkey standing in the middle of the road. We even came across some elephants. Clay houses with thatched roofs and a few banana trees around accommodate friendly people waving at us when we pass.

Tomorrow we are heading for South Luanga National Park. We hope to spot leopard and a big male lion and some wonderful other surprises....

14.9.2009

Botswana/Maun
Text: Reanda
Gefahren: 9800 km

On the way to Cape Cross we we saw the desert on the right and on the left the stormy waters of the Atlantic with some stranded ship wrecks close to the shore. Unfortunately we were just too late to visit the seal colony. It was very cool at night. We found a spot to spend the night. At sunrise we were waiting for the gates to open. I thought the smell might be bad there...we saw some jackal on the way and wondered what they fed on. We started smelling the something awful. It became worse and worse. Once we stopped and got out of the car the smell was so bad I wasn't sure anymore whether I want to see them. There they were hundreds of young seals being nurtured by their moms. On the side there were many skins of dead small seals and a dead jackal who didn't get pass the furious mother seal who tried to protect her young one. I was told that seals give birth, poos and sleep on the same spot and that is why they stink so much. Yucky hey!

It was time to leave the cold coast and move inland. Again we drove through sand and stone deserts and came to a Savanna landscape. Three days we drove until just before sunset, found a spot in a Riverbed to camp for the night, made fire, ate, went to bed, got up just before sunrise, had breakfast, then did school work until it became hot an the flies came to bug us, packed up, drove further....hardly ever any cars passed...every now and then we saw goats or donkeys or cattle or people asking us for water. (Whenever we found a bottle with a lid we filled it up with water and took it along, because there are many thirsty people in Namibia.) I had to navigate Roland on the computer and the GPS that hasn't been working since we've set foot on this continent!

On 24 August we visited Twyfelfontein (doubtful spring) where we saw our first rock ingravings and saw pictures of the Himba, Herero women taken a hundred years ago. First they were looking natural and a few years later being dressed in Victorian style with really interesting head coverings. The missionaries taught the people if they wanted to be a Christian, the first thing they should do is change their dress and change their names to christian names that Europeans could pronounce and remember. Here if you meet someone they will tell you their name is Robin or Esther and when you ask them: " but what is your real name" they will tell you their name which is really difficult to remember if you don't write it down. If you ask them what it means you will find out it means something like "a girl again" or "the one that makes us happy" or " she who came when it rained".

We arrived at the camp in Palmwag (we urgently needed diesel and had to wait until the morning to get some), an oasis with high palms and a bar with cold beer. We even ate there instead of cooking ourselves. There wasn't any stands free, but we insisted on parking our car on the parking spot and sleep there. We had to pay the full camping fees, and used the opportunity to wash washing and pack our car right etc. We didn't get time to swim in pool (Only Sarah who always finds time to jump into a pool, took a quick dip) It was extremely hot and dry everywhere. Our next village was Sesfontain where in a little shop that sold only coke, washing powder, chappies and mieliemeal had the first ATM we saw in days. We could draw money and fill up our car properly. The kids and I walked to look at an old german ford. As we saw they changed the old ford into a stunning lodge with a cool swiwwmmingpool we spoke to the workers there and told them that if they were looking the other way the children would have jumped into the pool quickly. So they told us that the guests were all on a day trip to see the Himba and Herero villages and so by the way they are looking the other way, so the kids jumped in to cool themselves off and then we carried on, on a really bad off road way to find Pyros the next day.

Purros is a village where the community run a camp on their own. We didn't have cash to pay to sleep in the camp and pay a guide to take us to the Himba Village, so they said we could sleep next to the camp and fetch water whenever we need some. When we woke up the next morning there were a few giraffes close to our car. Purros has a little shop that belongs to a very fancy dressed herero lady, called Sarah. Of course we needed a picture of our Sarah with Herero Sarah. Herero Sarah asked us to send her a picture, so Roland quickly printed her a picture and gave it to her. She was thrilled!

Robin was our guide. We walked 5km through the field with him. He showed us what wood you can use to brush your teeth in Namibia. When we saw the thick zig-zag spoor in the sand our question was answered wether it was warm enough yet for snakes to be around. We learnt about different spoors and signs, about how the Himba find honey to make beer etc. We spoke about witchdoctors and christianity, spirits, deamons, holy fire and the Holy Spirit. He told me that although many people there are Christians and they know it is not good for them to see the witchdoctor they have no choice, because the closest medical care is very far away - much too far to save you when you have been bitten by a snake or so. I told him that I have seen healings through prayer in Jesus' name to. He said he knew that, but there aren't Christians around praying for the people in that way.

We arrived at the Himba village. There we met a lady sitting at her hut. She showed us how she makes the red cream that she creams her whole body with. She had the softest skin. Afterwards we admired her clothes: a leather mini skirt, her hair was platted and worn backwards (she is a woman and not a little girl anymore), the leather crown on her head showed every one that she was married; the silver bangles on her legs were to show that she had two or more children. She showed us the lovely pouch that she carries her baby in. A very special leather dress with shells was her gift from her mom when she got married. Now it is her little 'brown number" ;-) for special occasions.

Robin took us to the next hive to see the laundry: A lady added a small piece of glowing coal to some herbs that she found in the field. Over a cone formed woven "basket" she hung the leather clothes and put it over the smoke. After a while I knew why the Himbas so good. The aromatized clothes were ready to wear.

We came to an elderly lady who was ill. It was time to put my money where my mouth was and to offer to pray for her. She was delighted. I put my hand on her and prayed. Something happened and she was happy. She was grateful and her blue eyes were shining. Robin asked us wether we could pray for another woman. We did. A man was resting under a thick blanket. It was very hot! He asked us for ointment and showed us his hand that was badly burnt. We walked back to the camp to fetch ointment. Robbin was excited about us praying and how it blessed the people. He said he has been a Christian for a long time and was always waiting for an anointing to pray for people. He asked us to pray with him. We promised we would. I went back to the Himba village to visit and play with the children because we wouldn't have had enough space in the car for Robin and us to return. It was such a special two hours for me. I just loved the himba children so much, all smelling so lovely. We drew pictures in the sand and wrote words. We swinged the little ones. From sheep wool and a few twigs that I found on the floor I made a sheep for a little boy who was going to be a shepherd when he grows up. More people came shyly to ask for prayer. When Roland arrived again Robin wanted prayer. He told us that he heard that some Christians draw a cross with oil on the peoples foreheads or pour it over their heads if they pray for them and he wants that so badly. He knew the Bible well! We spoke about the symbol and fetched olive oil from our car. He was very touched when we prayed for him. Then we blessed all the little children and put some crosses on their foreheads. The village was filled with joy by the timel we left. We asked Robbin to guide us to the lion he told us about. He told us that on the way there he wants us to go with him to pray for a lady in town and for a new born baby. When we did that he asked us whether we could go to the chief's house to pray with him and bless him. Also the chief was happy to be prayed for. Robin thanked us and now we went to look for the lion. We drove quite far, crossing the river a few times. Our kids loved driving through the water and opened the windows to feel the cold water splashing up. We saw lion. It was dark and we were tired by the time we got to a place where we could camp for the night.

The next morning we just wanted to fill up our water bottles and wash washing and dishes quickly before we headed for the road again. While doing the dishes the camp manager came to me and told me that they heard that we prayed for people and he needed prayer too and those nine men over there are also waiting for prayer. None of them knew much about God and Jesus, so we spoke to them about the gospel, prayed with them and trusted that God will let the seed grow!

A little bit of my heart was left behind in Purros with the Himba people when we left.

Now we were on our way to Opuwo. On the way we saw many little Himba villages. Sometimes they stopped us and asked for medical help, because they had a sick child, or they needed water or some just wanted a little gift...maybe sugar or tea. It was Friday when we reached Opuwo. After not seeing many people for a longer time it was strange to be in a bigger town. As we stopped the car many children and ladies came to the car wanting to sell things or look after the car or begged for food and money. It was frightening at the beginning and Fabian was very upset. I went to do shopping while Roland had the car fixed (after such bad roads we were loosing break fluid).In The shop there were many Herero women, dressed very well and sometimes I smelled this new smell I loved so much and when I looked up a Himba woman was close to me. I bought a few breads for the people children who asked me to. When I got out of the shop there were the Himbas and children and beggars all around me again. I didn't find it so threatening anymore and started talking and joking around with them a little until I found Roland with the fixed car. Now we needed to post letters and to get telephone cards to phone our parents.

Just as we arrived at the camp site I started talking to the ladies that worked there. They were all from different tribes, but they all had something in common all ladies liked nice hairstyles and jewelery. Each showed me what jewelery they were wearing under their western clothes...some beads around their ankles, others around the hips or waists and some had very fine patterns tattooed onto their backs and tummies. I told them that I considered having my hair braided.

That is how Hervis and I became friends. Someone suggested that Hervis should do my hair, she did it better and cheaper than any hairdresser. She could only do it after working hours though and it would take three days. I told her I was only going to be there for two days. Not to waste any time she took me to a room just next to where we were parking. She opened the door and I stepped into a room where there was another door...I felt like Narnia or Alice in Wonderland when I opened this door! I suddenly entered into another world that I haven't ever heard of before. Goats were bleating. Dogs were running around. One lonely pig was sniffing around the ashes. People in straw huts and stands were selling wood. meat, clothes and crafts, etc. Herero with their colorful dresses and head coverings, Himba with their skimpy leather clothes that smelled so lovely and Owambo woman also dressed a bit skimpy and had colorful skirts and beadwork. Roland joined us because he had to buy wood. As he held out the money that Hervis told him the wood costs the sales lady explained that today the wood costs three times as much as usually. Roland paid and wanted to carry it home. The woman all wanted to help, they couldn't imagine a man carrying this wood home with his hands. The women offered that two of them would carry it on their heads for him. Roland couldn't get it over his heart to let these woman half his size carry his wood home for him!

Hervis and I carried on through this almost fantasy world of fragrances and colors and new sounds. It was so full of life and flair! Hervis and I decided that I would wait outside while she shops for my new hair pieces, because also these shops, might have other prices if they see me. We agreed on red hair for me...a bit orange like my hair. Soon Hervis came out with my red (pink, purple and black) hair. She assured me that this was just perfect and I was going to look lovely. In the mean time my kids found some friends to play with. After an hour of braiding I told Hervis she doesn't need to go and cook, she can eat with us. She was delighted. Soon Hervis' friend Maria, came to help platting the hair. The light was a little bad so each of them got a headlamp to work with. The bar outside of the camp was playing loud music and we chatted...it was much fun. At nine I made salad and put potatoes on the stove and Roland started grilling the steak and sausage. It was a feast with our guests and they enjoyed it too. After dinner they carried on brading until eleven o'clock. The next day we had to do some things in town and at four my Hairdresser came. By this time I just wanted to pull out all my hair and really regretted this project! My sculp was hurting from pulling my hair, my back was aching from trying to sit still and I was just really fed up. Maria came to help again. Hours passed and Hervis promised me that by the next morning my hair would be done. Roland joined us and we chatted and laughed a bit. They told me about their families, how they grew up and their dreams and before I knew it it was ten o'clock and my hair was done!

The next morning was Sunday. I would have gone to church with Hervis, but her boss the owner of the camp, was in a bad mood so she had to do the rooms and couldn't go to church. I prayed with her and then saw the camp manager was all dressed up. I asked him to which church he was going. It was just the church I was looking for so I went with him. Unfortunately there was a big church conference and most churches met somewhere else and as we got to church no one was there. It was to late and too far to go there, so we decided to take a taxi there. We passed the majors house and I had heard of the major through a friend in South Africa, so we decided to drop by to say hI. Vincent (or was his name Victor?) knew the major well. The major's wife Uschi invited us to go to their church just next to where they lived. We did so and had a touching and blessed service. As I closed my eyes I smelt that lovely Himba fragrance again. As I looked around I saw a very old Himba man sitting two rows ahead of me. It made me smile. They sang some worship songs in the church that we sing back home too, but here it is very different to sing we are comming back to the heart of worship because I couldn't sing I am poor in a church where I am probably the richest of all. Vincent was going to buy the camp from the French owner. He told me about the plans he had for the camp. I unfortunately forgot to give him my e-mail address and blog, so please, if you are reading this and do go to Opuwo please give my details to Vincent at Oreness Camp Site! Or phone the camp 273572.

From Opuwo we went to Ethosha. We always slept just outside the park and at a piknic place and went in for the day. We saw many zebras and giraffes and two large lizards mating.

As we went through Grootfontein to draw money and do some shopping and post our letters I remembered that this was the town where very old friends (the pastor of the church we went to and his wife) of mine from White River in South Africa lived. I haven't seen them since I was about 16 years old! Although we were very dirty and had patched clothes on we decided to look up Pator Boet and Magda and have coffee with them. We asked around a bit and then found their lovely stone house. They spoiled us and offered us rooms in their stunning guest house. Wow! What a blessing. We could catch up on school work with the kids and do our corresponding and sleep on soft beds in Antique furnished rooms. We swam, did laundry in a washing machine and rested well! The next day they left for a conference and we left to visit the Bushmen (Pator Boet gave us the address)

We arrived at the Bushmen quite late. They allowed us to sleep there place. We asked them what they would charge to dance and sing for us. It was Thursday the first day of taking our Malaria precaution tablets. We had a quick snack for supper andwent to join the people around the fire. The chief and his wife and another elderly lady put their dancing clothes on. More and more people arrived. They spoke Afrikaans so I could speak to them. The ladies started hitting two little wooden planks together and the young girls clapped there hands and started sing. It was loud. We couldn't sit down watching them for long we had to get up and join the circle and clapping along. Just as we were really tired and wondered whether it would be impolite to tell them that we would like to go and sleep the man who spoke Afrikaans told me that the people asked whether they could stop, because the children were tired and had to go to bed. Sarah had gone to bed already and Fabian was very relieved that this very loud music was over. They asked us whether their choir could sing us one or two church songs before we go to bed. They sang like angels! All went to bed...singing. It was quick camping again...it meant this time Roland and the kids slept in the tent and I on the back seat of the car. I couldn't sleep much and got up before sunrise to take pictures of the Settlement. (It was dark when we arrived) Soon the chief and his wife got up and got the fire going. I went to sit with them. I went to fetch tea bags and sugar in the car, so that we could have tea together. They fetched something that looked like a bow and arrow. She rested it on her shoulder and rubbed a stick on the wooden bow. then she very carefully blew with her lips close to the vibrating string. Gentle sounds created a melody that my ears never heard before. The water boiled and we each had a cup of tea. They liked theirs very sweet. One after the other people started coming out of their huts and joined their grandparents around the fire. I fetched more tea. The old chief fetched another music instrument. A Long wooden bow and a calabash that he held tight to his tummy gently drumming the calabash and hitting the string with his thumb while singing his song. We made more tea and the whole packed of sugar was gone. I had learned that the people haven’t eaten the last days. It was time for my kids to do their school work. It was school holidays for tne Namibian children (Only three children attended school) They were all sitting watching Sarah and Roland doing maths. I handed out some coloring in books that I got from ÖAMTC and pencils from JOLLY. Even some of the grownups asked whether they could join. We all sat there and colored in pictures. The grandmother came to ask wether I could take her to the shop to buy food from the money we paid them for dancing. We had to first fold up our roof tent and arrange all our bags in the car so that we could drive. When we wanted to leave they brought a sick boy to me and asked us to help him. The child was really not looking well at all. We didn't know what was wrong with him. He was lame and his eyes were turning over etc. We prayed for him and I felt I should give him something against fever and lots to drink. We were worried. The grandmother asked whether we could take him and his mother along and take them to hospital. The children and I stayed back and Roland took them to hospital. When Roland came back two to three hours later he told me that the boy was doing much better by the time they got to the hospital. He was totally dehydrated from a stomach bug. The grandmom went for shopping and they would all come back with the donkey car later in the day.

We left for Khaudom Game Reserve close to the Caprivi Strip and spend some nights there. We saw over eighty elephants at once. It was amazing to observe them from the hide in the tree house. We didn't have to pay for camping in this very basic camp (There was hot water!) The road up north was a sand sea and Roland was exhausted after this off road driving for hours and hours. There were big bushfires along the way up to the Caprivi Strip.

On Sunday the 6th of September we entered Botswana. At night we arrived at the Tsodilo Hills (The Bushmen believed that life started there). The gates were closed, but not locked. So we went in and got ready for bed. We haven't seen grass for days and it was such a treat that we could park somewhere where it wasnt so dusty. We were going to quick camp again and it was my turn to spend a bad night on the backseat of the car. The weather was so mild and lovely the moon was full and red so I decided to sleep outside. We made ourselves a bed next to the car looking at the silhouette of Female hill next to us and felt the gentle breeze on our faces. So far this was the most beautiful night in Africa.

The next morning we went to Register. Camping was for free. The bathrooms were clean. The drinking water was very good! The guide took us on the Rhino walk. We saw 3 thousand year old rock paintings. Fabian enjoyed climbing the rocks so much that he and Roland went back to climb again and watched the sunset from there. Sarah and I did washing and got supper ready and kept the goats away from nibbling on our car and clothes and tablecloths and the treasures we have tied under our car!

Except for this free camping the rest of Botswana is really expensive. Some low budget safari guides we met in the camp gave us tips on placed we could go to.

Yesterday we went on a mokoro and swam in the Okovango delta. Our poler Ebee was excellent. We learnt so much from him and had an amazing day. He does private tours too. At the moment you can find him at Seronga, but from next year he will be at Etsha.

Unfortunately we also see disturbing things in Africa. We saw a Elephant calf being driven over by a car and plenty of dead donkeys and goats. This is very upsetting for Sarah and at the moment she can't eat any meat.

Tonight we are camping just before Maun. On the way here we were stopped to disinfect our car tires and our shoes to make sure we don't carry any diseases into this district. Tomorrow we have to have the car fixed and go shopping and call our parents and spend some time in an internet cafè. It is quick camping tonight and I offered to sleep on the backseat, because I wanted to write on the computer. When we stopped here we found the sweet little frog, that slept on our car last night, in our car tonight. It is so dry where we are now and so different to where he comes from. We can't let him out here. Now he is sitting in a jug closed with tinfoil. I just hope he survives. Fabian is worried that he will die of hunger tonight. He has a little water from our water tank. He is a six hour drive away from home. Tomorrow we will let him out in Maun. It is 2am now so the night sleeping on the backseat won't be too long and I am tired enough to sleep anywhere now.

OUR CHILDREN WILL APRECIATE E-MAILS FROM YOU. THEY ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD WHEN WE GO TO THE INTERNET CAFÈS TO CHECK E-MAILS!

12 September :I slept so badly. There was something running around inside the car. We have a mouse in the car! We have set a trap. Today we saw two mice running around under our car - big mice without tails. We hope it was the mouse from our car!

Sarah and I went shopping for the things in Maun while the men took the car to the mechanic. At lunch time roland fetched us and told us they want to change something on the car so we had more space. Gil, who helped Roland with the car, invited us to stay over with him and his wife. We had lovely salads and chatted and Fabian and Sarah watched DVDs and played with the cats and dogs. We slept in beds and did our laundry in a washing machine. Tonight we are sleeping here again and tomorrow we are leaving for the Khwai River.

At the Topnarr people

Reandas new look (sorry doesnt want to let me rotate it)

With friends in Grootfontain - thanks for the lovely stay

At the Okavango Delta with Ebee

Khaudom

Etosha

Tsodillo Hills

With the bushmen near Khaudom - giving Jolly drawing pencils

The evening before - big party with them

2.9.2009
Namibia/Grootfontain
Text: Roland
Gefahren: 8500 km

Nach mehreren Tagen im Busch waren wir sehr froh in Opuwo am Campingplatz zu sein. Leider wurde die Freude am nächsten Tag etwas getrübt, da ein starker Wind fuer reichlich Staub sorgte. Wir waren zwar schon von den Pisten gewöhnt, dass alles im Auto mit einer feinen Staubschicht bedeckt ist, aber das war dann doch zu viel. Mit Bier versuchen Reanda und ich das schlimmste zu verhindern(endlich kein Wasser mehr). Reanda möchte jeden Tag nett aussehen, da wir nicht genug Wasser für eine tägliche Kopfwäsche habe, ist das mit den staubigen Haaren etwas schwierig. Um das Problem zu lösen, entschied sich Reanda eine Art Rasterlocken im Himbastile machten zu lassen. Und so saß sie dann über 2 Tage 5 Stunden täglich umringt von 2 bis 3 Frauen die ihre Haare verlängerten und dabei etwa 100 dünne Zöpfchen flechteten. Eine der Frauen war eine Himba, die andere eine Herero wodurch sich die Möglichkeit ergab noch mehr über deren Kultur zu erfahren. Das fertige Werk war dann sehr interessant, in den ersten Tagen danach musste ich immer zweimal schauen, ob es wirklich Reanda war, diese Frau mit der schrägen Frisur.
In der Zwischenzeit baute ich den Wassertank fertig ein, damit wir unterwegs mehr Wasser für unsere täglichen Bedürfnisse(Duschen etc.) hatten. Bisher hatten wir immer Flaschen mit Wasser abgefüllt. Nachdem wir aber am Ende für die längeren Offroad Strecken etwa 15 Flaschen im Auto hatten, war ich beim täglichen Ein- und Ausräumen schon leicht frustriert.
Opuwo selbst ist eine sehr spannende Stadt, hier treffen wirklich zwei Welten aufeinander. Man sieht Männer im Anzug und Headset, auf der anderen Strassenseite verkaufen einige Himbafrauen Feuerholz, nur mit Lendeschurz bekleidet, breiten Ketten an den Fußgelenken, die Haut rot eingefärbt und die Haare mit roten Fett dick bestrichen. Unterwegs haben wir viele Fotos von Himbas gemacht nachdem wir vorher ein Gespräch hatten und auch ihre Einwilligung für ein Foto hatten. Hier in der Stadt ist das anders, alle sind geschäftig unterwegs und es ergeben sich keine Gespräche und damit auch keine Fotos. Einfach so herumzuknipsen widerstrebt uns.
Am Sonntag besucht Reanda einen Gottesdienst, während ich noch am Auto arbeite(einräume..). Wir haben einige Schachteln voll mit Sachen zum Verschenken mit. Bisher konnten wir einiges in Krankenhäusern, Schulen und Waisenhäusern an Kinder weitergeben, doch noch immer haben wir einiges im Auto. Deshalb war ich sehr froh als Reanda mit der Frau des Pastors zurückkam, um einiges von diesen Sachen zu holen. Neben Stofftieren, Unterwäsche, und Buntstiften (gesponsert von Jolly) können wir auch Malbücher, Luftballons und Schreibblöcke weitergeben. Es ist immer wieder berührend zu sehen welche Begeisterung diese Kleinigkeiten bei den Kindern auslösen und wir fühlen uns manchmal etwas beschämt, das wir nicht mehr geben können.
Gegen Nachmittag brechen wir dann Richtung Etosha auf. Die Nacht verbringen wir am Picknickplatz(wie schon öfter in Namibia) neben der Strasse (dort gibt es Tische, Bänke und einen Mistkübel - sehr wertvoll da wohin sonst mit dem Müll).
Nach dem Krüger war der Etosha eine leichte Enttäuschung für uns. Die Salzpfanne selbst war interessant, aber wir sahen keine besonderen Tiere. Um Kosten zu sparen schlafen wir draußen vor dem Park, da die Campinggebühren extrem hoch sind. Am Abend bevor wir den Park verlassen, gehen wir noch schnell im Pool eines der Camps schwimmen was uns nach einem ereignislosen Tag wieder erfrischt. Nach zwei Tagen sind wir froh weiterzufahren.
Wir schlafen meist nicht sehr gut, so das wir alle etwas müde und angespannt sind. Unterwegs(zu einem besonderen Zielen) machen wir uns nicht die Mühe unten im Auto ein Bett zu bauen. Die Kinder schlafen mit Reanda oben im Dachzelt, während ich unten auf der Rückbank im Auto schlafe. Nach insgesamt 10 Nächten auf diese Weise, kenne ich nun alle Arten sich auf 1.4 Meter so zu verrenken, das man fuer die nächste Stunde oder vielleicht auch zwei schlafen kann. Aber so kann man in der Früh schneller weiterfahren. Umso größer war die Freude, als uns ein bekannter Pastor von Reanda in Grootfontain ein Zimmer in seiner Pension(nachdem der Pastor von Opuwo - immerhin Bezirkshauptstadt - auch Bürgermeister ist, erstaunt mich ein Pastor mit B+B nicht mehr) anbot - Luxus pur: ein schönes Bad, tolles Zimmer, Pool und das Beste: seit einem Monat ein richtiges Bett! Keine Nacht mit leichtem Schlaf wo man beim geringsten Geräusch munter wird und nach dem Rechten sieht. In Sesriem z.B. schlief ich unten im Auto mit offener Tür, um meine Beine zu strecken. In der Nacht dann schrecke ich auf, draußen ein leises Getrappel. Zwei Schakale schleichen ums Auto, aber meine Socken schrecken sie zum Glück ab.

Morgen werden wir dann aufbrechen, um in der Gegend von Tsumkwe die Kultur der San (Buschmänner) kennenzulernen. Danach werden wir durch den Kaudom Park in den Caprivi Strip fahren. In Botswana geht es dann über die Tsodillo Hills(Felsmalereien der San) nach Maun im Okawango Delta (in etwa 10 Tagen) . Besonders freue ich mich auf den Kaudom Park. Hier dürfen nur 4x4 Autos rein - besser immer zu zweit - und man darf überall aussteigen und Campen - mitten unter Elephanten und Löwen. Hoffe es wird so gut wie es klingt.

Sundowner im Busch nach langer Fahrt

29.8.2009
Namibia/Opuwo
Text: Roland
Gefahren: 7900 km ( davon etwa 3000 km auf Pisten und Offroad)
Fotos: 5600

Bisher blieb wenig Zeit für Aufzeichnungen, es ist einfach viel zu tun. In Namibia waren wir fast nur auf Seitenwegen (Pisten) und Offroad Strecken unterwegs(es fehlen schon 3mm Gummi). Daher auch kein Internet, Telefon und noch schlimmer: keine Möglichkeit Bargeld abzuheben. Das ist vor allem wichtig fürs Tanken - das geht nur in Bar - aber mit den letzten zehn Litern im Tank haben wir es gerade noch bis zu einem Ort mit Bank (Opuwo) geschafft. Die Dörfer durch die wir fahren sind auf der Karte gut dargestellt, bestehen aber meist nur aus ein paar Hütten mit kleinem Geschäft. Manchmal gibt aus auch eine Zapfsäule.
Dabei gibt es auch kleine Überraschungen wie in Sesfontein: Ziegen und Rinder auf den Straßen, einige Lehm- und Ziegelhütten. Im kleinen Laden dann ein Computer mit Barcodeleser an der Kasse.

Nachdem wir in Suedafrika noch viel am Auto gearbeitet haben und bei Verwandten wohnten, geht es in Namibia endlich wirklich zur Sache. Endlich können wir unser Dachzelt intensiv nutzen und wir versuchen für die täglichen Dinge eine bestmöglichen Ablauf zu entwickeln. Öfter fahren wir durch schwieriges Gelände, und durchqueren zahlreiche Flüsse, was allen Spaß macht. (Ich versuche etwas schneller zu fahren, damit die Kinder hinten wenigstens manchmal duschen).

Arbeiten: Seit der Verschiffung treten immer wieder Kühlerprobleme auf. Nach Werkstattbesuchen in Kapstadt (Entlueften), George (Kühlerausbau, Thermostatausbau) und Nelspruit(Kontrolle der Dichtheit) ist noch immer nicht ganz klar was los ist - aber inzwischen funktioniert alles wieder und keiner weiß warum. Der Einbau des Schnorchels war sehr günstig obwohl sehr arbeitsintensiv. Bin froh das ich das nicht selbst versucht habe, nachdem ich 6 Stunden 2 Mann bei der Arbeit zugesehen habe.
Die Scheiben lies ich in Nelspruit verdunkeln, hält das Auto kühl, und bieten Schutz vor Steinschlag (Glasbruch).
Nachdem der Campingtisch nicht in den vorgesehenen Einschub passte(Einkauf nach Augenmass - einige mm zu dick), musste ich selbst einen bauen.. Der ist jetzt dafür aber sehr groß und bietet Platz fuer bis zu 6 Personen. Damit auch die leeren Kanister auf das Dach passen, haben ich die Box nach vorne versetzt.
Habe aus versehen über Nacht einmal die Zündung ein gelassen. Die neue Starterbatterie ist zwar sehr robust, hat aber was gegen Tiefenladung, zum Glück hab ich eine 2te Batterie.
Und sonst: In Walvisbai ein beschädigtes Reifenventil(am Asphalt - nach 2500 km Piste) - Reifenwechseln im Sandsturm - da hatte ich dann echt die Hosen voll. 50 km vor Opuwo bricht eine hintere Bremsleitung. Den Kühen, Eseln und Ziegen auf der Strecke konnte ich ohne Bremsen dann nur durch wilde Manöver ausweichen. In Opuwo dann eine Werkstatt! Als ich das Auto, mittlererweile ‘ Big Blu’ genannt (in Anlehnung an Reanda‘s Handtasche - ‘Deep Blu’), in die Werkstatt stelle und ich erklären moechte was los ist, liegt schon einer unterm Auto, hat das Problem erkannt und spritzt erst mal den Staub weg. Ich bin echt beeindruckt und dankbar das das hier passiert ist und nicht irgendwo. Nach 30 Minuten und 22 Euro ist der Schaden behoben und ich kann Reanda suchen gehen, die inzwischen fuer die kommenden Tage einkauft.

Navigation: Neben Karten von Reiseknowhow habe ich hier die tracks4africa GPS Karte von Afrika gekauft, unglaublich dieser Detailreichtum von Cape bis Cairo. Fuer einigen Camps gibt es sogar GPS - Koordinaten der Toiletten. Das hilft aber nicht viel, da sich seit dem Kruegerpark nach dem Einschalten das GPS Gerät mit einem Error abmeldet. In Namibia navigieren wir daher mit Himmelsrichtungen und Kilometerstand, was nicht immer leicht ist wenn sich viele Spuren kreuzen.

Begegnungen
- die Hilfsbereitschaft und Großzügigkeit bei den Werkstätten überrascht mich immer wieder: bei DTM Nissan George - Thermostat ausbauen, Leihwagen für 2 Tage, Testfahrt im Gebirge - Gratis - “Paie Dankie Johann“. Ähnliches in Nelspruit - 30 min Arbeit am Auto - Gratis - “Paie Dankie Peter“. In Walvisbai hatte es mir ein Ventil am Reifen beschädigt - ironischer Weise hatte ich dann nach 2000 km Piste am Asphalt einen Platten - neues Ventil einbauen in Swakopmund gratis.
- Im Tsitsikama Forest trafen wir Andrea und Rene. Nach 9 Monaten durch Afrika waren sie schließlich in Südafrika angekommen, wollen ihr Auto( Nissan Patrol! )in Zimbabwe lassen und später von dort weiter reisen - Alles Gute! Wir sprachen natürlich viel über ihre Erfahrungen Unter anderem berichteten sie von einem anderen Pärchen Transafrika Reisender die ebenso aus Tschechien Richtung Südafrika unterwegs waren. Wen treffen wir an einem Abend im Kruegerpark - Marola Camp - dieses zwei Reisenden (Nissan Patrol!). Am Aussehen des Fahrzeugs kann man sofort erkennen, das hier jemand im Auto wohnt, und schon lang damit in Afrika unterwegs war. Auch mit Marek und Theresa haben wir eine intensive Unterhaltung. Dabei reden wir Männer eher vom Auto (Federn, Dämpfer, Kühler, Einbauten) oder tauschen Werkstattadressen aus. Die Mädels reden meist über Sinnvolleres wie Land und Leute. Diese Beiden sind ebenso 9 Monate unterwegs, möchten ihr Auto in SA überholen lassen und über die Westroute zurück nach Europa - Enjoy your Trip.
- In Homeb, am Nordrand der Namib treffen wir das Volk der Topnarr. Die Kinder helfen beim Futter holen für die Ziegen, reiten auf Eseln und am Abend sitzen wir gemeinsam am Feuer.
- Hier im Norden Namibias leben die Herero und Himba. Da wir nur auf Nebenrouten unterwegs sind, treffen wir viele dieses Volkes, die noch sehr ursprünglich leben. Einer hilft uns dann meist mit Übersetzen und wir erfahren viel über ihre Kultur.
- In Namibia treffen wir viele Deutsche die hier ihren Geländewagen unterstellen und jedes Jahr hier Urlaub machen. Sie kennen das Land recht gut und ich versuche immer Hinweise über schöne Routen und Plätze zu bekommen.

Die Planung der Tagesziele ändert sich auch im Vergleich zu SA. 100 km können 1 Stunde Fahrzeit oder auch 6 Stunden bedeuten.
Wir versuchen vor Sonnenaufgang aufzustehen. Nach dem Frühstück lernen wir etwa 2 Stunden mit den Kindern. Bis wir alles wieder im Auto haben(eine tägliche Mühsal) ist es dann etwa 10 Uhr. Die Fliegen werden auch lästig und wir schauen das wir weiterkommen. Nach einigen Stunden Fahrt mit Unterbrechungen - Essen, Fotostopps und Anderem - halten wir gegen 16 Uhr und bauen unser Lager auf. Während dem Kochen ist wieder Lernzeit für die Kinder bis Sonnenuntergang. Gegen 20 Uhr gehen wir dann schlafen.

Schon zu Hause wollten wir ein Logo für unsere Reise entwerfen, aber es fehlte einfach die Zeit dazu. Angeregt durch die netten Logos auf dem Auto von Rene/Andrea und Marek/Theresa wollten wir es uns nun ebenso angehen. Aber auch in SA sind die Tage sehr voll, zum Glück hat sich Reg bereit erklärt uns zu helfen. Nach einem groben Entwurf von mir hat er ein Logo designed das uns allen sehr gefällt.

Hier noch ein paar Bilder

Fabian besteigt jede Duene die wir sehen

Cape Cross - den Geruch sieht man hier nicht

Ich liebe Sonnenauf und Untergaenge - hier in Kaokoveld

Himba

Himba

Herero

Kaokoveld

Fabian und sein Playmobil

Unser Lager am Abend von Okobembe nach Opuwo - seit 2 Tagen kein Auto mehr gesehen

Kaokoveld - weites Land

We were very spoilt by my Cousin Louis. We could update Internet things, got all our music on MP3. We went for a scrumptious meal to a Restaurant where my sister worked when she was a student. My Aunt came by to see us and was surprise to see how the children have grown. At last we went for coffee with relatives with smaller children. The children all just had so much fun. The next day I met my old friend for lunch. The men went for an afternoon nap like everyone in South Africa does on a Sunday and I stayed to catch up with Gill and Fabian looked after her children.

On Monday we left for Nelspruit. From Mosselbay to Pretoria we still had problems with the radiator. So we were thrilled that everything worked on the 360km to Nelspruit journey. Home sweet home! Mom was waiting with lunch. The kids went for a swim (I stayed in the water for 5 minutes). Sarah stayed in for hours. The children watched a lot of television and told me that they are learning English, so it was acceptable. Reg and Roland got some things done on the car. We had a dark film put on the windows to protect us from heat and some more alterations had to be done. We had to get a new car radio as our CD and MP3 player didn’t work.

Now we had to radically reduce our stuff so that we could really use it for camping. This meant hours of packing again…I still can`t get the like of it, but I realize with everything l can let go of makes my life easier and the packing less. I didn’t want to leave any of the gifts I brought along for children on the way behind, so Roland tied them under the car and I promised we will get rid of them soon.

We entered Namibia at Nakop. They checked all kinds of things, but at least we didn’t have to unpack our car. Namibia, Botswana and South Africa are one trade union and they told us we will have trouble leaving Botswana because we our Car radio was broken and we left it in SA and bought a new one. On our Carnet de Passage the old one is registered….so please pray for us not to have big problems at all the borders (This is when you wish that the rest of the continent only reads Arabic or something.)

After crossing the border we drove until we saw a hospital sign at a small settlement. I asked Roland whether we could go there and visit the children ward. When we got there we heard there were only 3 children there. Sarah and I took some bears and monkeys and ran to the children. Gave each a gift and prayed for them. The nurses thanked us and also wanted prayer. The nurses told us that we would find many children at the school hostel. As we came there the school kids were playing around. I found the head of the hostel and he told me about 300 children lived there. I wouldn’t have had enough for everyone so the headmaster called all the first and second grade children. Again they sang songs, I told a story about the special spider and told them that each of them have something special about them that no one else has. God had a dream for their life and a special calling just for him/her. We all prayed together and the teacher and the headmaster told us how much they appreciated it. The children were very well disciplined and well behaved and as they left the hall they all screamed for joy and jumped up and down! It was so awesome! Poor Fabian on the other hand side didn`t want to come along and stayed in the car. All the rest of the schoolboys came to have a look at our car where he was sitting in. It was frightening for him to sit in the car being surrounded by 30 boys. I can just imagine how frightened he was. We assured him that we will never leave him alone anywhere where it might just be a little dangerous! We heard that further North in Africa we will always have a crowd surrounding us if we stop close to cities. He was very upset so we decided that he should sleep with Roland. Just before sunset we found a picnic table and chairs along the road. There were hardly any cars on this very broad long straight road heading for Fish river canyon. This was the perfect camping spot for our first night in Namibia! I cooked a quick meal and then we went to bed.

14 August we went up North. Again we drove until Sunset to camp on a picnic spot. It wasn’t

very lovely, but we were exhausted and just went to bed after having a small supper. We drove about 500km, without finding one shop. Then we had a great breakfast in Bethani. Late afternoon we found a stunning garage to fill up our car and had coffee and apple cake as we didn’t have any expenses for staying overnight. The road was wide, yellow grass with some springbucks, ostriches, and gemsbokke every now and then. Later we started seeing the fine red sand and knew that the Namib Desert was getting closer. It was very hot. We stopped at Sesriem and were shocked to see how expensive camping was. At the rest camp we each drank a cold drink and at the Garage we could draw money again. At last, because we couldn’t draw any money since we were in Nelspruit. We bought the first fresh bread since we have arrived in Namibia and found a picnic spot 1km away from the camp to sleep for two nights. There are some moments that you see someone absolutely content and happy. I saw Roland like this when he drove with his 4X4 through the sand. This was the moment he waited for so long! We spend the next day in the red dunes. Climbing up is hard work, like anything that is worth while something. Down, you leap long leaps and it feels as if you are flying. I cannot capture the beauty of this day in words or pictures. We all climbed up dune 45 and went to Deadvlei. On the way out we saw a jackal.

Here and there we saw a animal, but no people. We came to old ruins. Stopped and then carried on. Just before our camp we found a little settlement. The people told us that they have always lived there for generation after generation. There were three plots with donkeys hand dogs a cat and a lot of goats. They showed us their vegetable garden. Our camping spot was just a few meters away from their house. Soon they came along with a donkey cart and invited the children to go along to fetch the food they have collected for the young goats and kids who are not allowed to go out of their camp. We heard babies crying in the river bank so we went to have a look. There came the donkey cart driver with two kids just born an hour before and the mom following. We carried the babies in our arms and then they stopped crying and the mom went away. The farmer told us that we should carry the kids by their legs. The kids moaned all the way, but then the mother followed us to the camp. The farmers asked us for wine and sugar, but we only had sugar to offer. Roland drove them 30km so that we could get some wine, but unfortunately the next village, a research centre, also ran out of wine. The kids and I sat in their house around the fire and chatted. Supper was grilled on really hard hot coals from the wood you get here in the desert. We liked it so much there that we decided to stay another night. Again the children went to help finding food for the goats and learnt things about the desert. They were told that the people eat a little sand sometimes. It is very salty and full of minerals.

Yesterday we drove further to more sand dunes. Fabian ran up the highest one with his stick that he has been carried around since Cape Town. When he came down He described us what he saw from the top. As we drove further Roland said he wished he saw what Fabian saw from the top of the dunes, but this was something that just Fabian experienced. There are no photos of what he saw. Only he has the pictures and the feeling of being alone on that dune in his heart. I hope he can cherish this moment forever.

We drove further. The sand dunes disappeared and we saw an endless white sand dessert. Now and then we passed little settlements or farms as those where we camped the nights before. Then we saw the school and hostel where all the children from those settlements go.

A bit further in the middle of nowhere we saw a lovely church. We drove a bit off road to have a better look at it. We drove even further and saw a surveying team. Roland stopped to say hello. Suddenly a sandstorm came from nowhere. You couldn’t see much around you. The wind became stronger and stronger then suddenly we saw the sea – Walvis Bay! Just as we saw the palm trees before entering Walvis Bay Roland heard a strange sound coming from the car. We stopped. On 5500km in the sand storm just before Walvis Bay Roland hat to change a flat wheel. It went quick and soon we went on 30km to Swakopmund. We looked for accommodation and could only afford the campgrounds. We hear the waves and seagulls and the children are happy that we are close to the toilets and I am happy that there are showers. Builders camp just next to us so they wake us at 6h30.

Fabian says he just started feeling so comfortable, not showering and wearing the same clothes day and night for about a week now…I try to at least wash every day even if I only have a cup of water. Sarah and I showered cold, only the men had warm water. OOOOH I tell you, our washing bag smells so awful that I don`t think any laundry will be prepared to wash it. Today we were in Town shopping for shoes for Sarah and getting the valve of the wheel fixed. We had a valve along, so it went really quick and they didn’t charge us for it.

The children did their schoolwork in a stunning bar and Restaurant last night. I Caught up on writing on www.wacksweitweg.at . The Tug is a tugboat that sank here and they use it for a bar and build a restaurant onto it. We ate fish there. This afternoon we went to a restaurant on the beach where we had coffee and Austrian cake. Roland said one more day of spoiling before we go back to the wilderness. I Remained in the restaurant for the rest afternoon to finish writing our block, while the children went to play on the beach and in the water (13°C) . Tonight we are sleeping in the same camp again. There are signs up everywhere that the management cannot take responsibility for theft. At midnight first a lady screamed and then her husband drove away. She called him and shouted around. They both left then. We didn’t know what really happened, but it was upsetting. Roland was restless and got up to check everything around the car a few times. This was the first really restless night.

When we were visiting in South Africa it was really difficult to keep up writing our blog, but from now on I will try to write regularly, because one experiences so much that you forget the thoughts you wanted to write down. It is also difficult to find internet access. We don’t have a phone at the moment, but we will buy a phone card and call our parents, and write some e-mails today.

It's been quite a while since I've written,but I will try to make a short summary on our last preparations. We managed to get the car packed and finished just in time to get it into the container. Just the day before we noticed oil dripping. It was a religious holiday in Austria , so we couldn't get anything done on the car.

Roland's father and mother came to help us and worked until after 22h00 to put the tent on the roof carrier and all little time consuming things that we never would have managed to finish if they didn't help us.

I packed and packed and packed (of course much to much) and at about 1am we got to bed and got up at 5am. The next day at 10am Roland went off with the car, had it checked by the mechanic and send it off to SA at 13h00. We had to send it the way it was and have it fixed in SA.

Four weeks sounded like such a long time we still had left to pack, buy whatever we forgot, to pack up our house to have it rented out and to say good bye to friends...It was so amazing how so many people just found a way of sharing their love or enthusiasm about our journey with us..some came to help with the packing, some brought food along or invited us for a short lunch Lots of people wished us wonderful things...some gave us an envelope to contribute to our expenses...and some friends from church threw a surprise farewell party for us. On the last moment my mom in law helped me to clean the house while I packed the last boxes and my father in law drove away trash that we urgently had to get rid of. Our Neighbors were so great each helping us to get rid of another burden....Thank you sooooooo much to all of you who helped and support us and blessed us and shared in our enthusiasm about this journey......and also to those who love us so much that worry and just wanted us to stay to be sure we are safe!

Thank you to those who are carrying us in their prayers! (I know all the acknowledgments usually come extra, but I just had to add it in here because my heart is running over with gratefulness and a little sentiment!!)

We had a comfortable flight. No one moaned once that they we bored or hungry or had too little space(Roland: well, Reanda sat 4 seats away from my). We never slept on the plane (too many exciting movies), but we had about six hours on the airport where we slept well.

Today 21st July we went for yummy fish in George and of course to visit the mechanic AGAIN. Now the car is at the mechanic and we got another car to go the Knysna an Stormrivier National Park. We got the last Chalet available and are all thrilled about our cosy place. We will get up early tomorrow and go on a hike along the sea and hope to see more whales.

We didn't see more whales but awesome big waves breaking and we met our first Transafrica travellers and had a lovely chat and somehow felt bonded and encouraged.

22 July we left for Oudtshoorn. It was our first effort to camp. It was dark when we arrived in the camp in this semi dessert town. The bathrooms were wonderful and after a bath we just needed a bed. The car was MUCH (did I mention much much?!) too full to convert anything into a bed. The kids and I slept in the roof tent and Roland on the backseat of the car. The morning it was still rainy! We packed up our car and went for a warm breakfast in a warm place. It is cold in the desert in the winter! After that we went to the Cango caves. Roland and the kids went on the adventure tour. I sticked to the one for softies. When I met up with them they (especially Fabian) just shon (Glaensen)! The first real adventure just did something in them ! I too was so amazed by the awesome beauty of these warm caves! We were on different tours with different guides and we were so impressed by the guides..I'm too lazy to find other words than just WOW! THANKS! and STUNNING!

After the caves we wanted to go to an Ostrich farm but as we got there they offered us a free coffee and told us that it is too wet for a tour. It was pouring! It was the very first time I saw a wet ostrich!! Its really ugly. We asked for a hand full of pellets and we fed Betsie. I could remember how to get an ostrich to hug you from the last tour 12 years ago, so I showed the kids and thez each got a hug from poor old wet Betsie and it was great fun. Unfortunately Roland (with the camera) was already waiting in the car for us so we don't have any pictures of that to share. The people from Oudtshoorn were so thrilled about the cool rain. It is about as seldom as ostriches in Austria ;-)

ich dann aufgewacht und musste dann ein wenig spaeter in das Flugzeug nach Captown steigen. 8 Stunden mussten wir wir fliegen. Dort holten uns Verwandte ab.

Wir blieben dort fuer 4 Tage.

Freitag : Wir sind nach Mosselbay gefahren. Der Strand heisst dort Muschelbucht. Es war dort sehr schoen.

Samstag : Heute waren wir an einem anderem Strand. Da waren die Wellen ca. 3 m. Ich bin den Wellen direkt entgegen gegangen, dabei hat es mich immer weg gespuelt.

Meine Augen haben die ganze Zeit gebrannt wegen dem Salzwasser. Wie ich aus dem Wasser

gekommen bin habe ich gegessen, und kurz danach habe ich ein Loch gegraben was ungefaehr 1 m tief war.

Sonntag : Mein Vater ist mit den Haien tauchen gegangen. In einem Kaefig passen 6 Leute hinein. Ein Weisser Hai ist 1 m neben dem Boot hinaus gesprungen.